The Death of Yugoslavia thumbnail

The Death of Yugoslavia

I’ve learned more about the rise and fall of Yugoslavia in the past month than in any of my European history classes in school. Our history lesson was most visually impactful in Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina,...

Autumn Arrives in Sarajevo thumbnail

Autumn Arrives in Sarajevo

We were in Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina when fall arrived. It wasn’t gradual. One day it was hot, all sunscreen and tank tops and flip flops. The next day, we were buried under throw blankets and digging...

world wide web

Corners of the Internet #17

Greetings from Lake Ohrid, Macedonia. I am writing this early in the morning, and the sun is pouring into our hotel room. Of course, thanks to the patchy internet, I am confined to one small corner of the room with the...

Mostar sniper tower: view from the 7th floor

How We Broke Into the Former Mostar Sniper Tower

Near the Old Town of Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina, lies a concrete shell of a building. Today, it is completely abandoned, with no sign that it was once a thriving, modern, Croat bank, with a shiny glass facade...

Perast Montenegro

Perast, Montenegro: A Journey Back in Time

Once upon a time there was a tiny village called Perast, home to families who made their lives from the sea. Fishing, marine exploration, shipping – life revolved around the water. As is always the case in...

Balkan Food: best washed down with the local rakija

The Beginner’s Guide to Balkan Food and Drink

Here’s what no one told us about the Balkans: you cannot escape from the food. The Balkan countries have a long history, and have been combined into one kingdom or territory at many points. To say they share a...